Milan, January 17th, 2024 – From the sensual vision of Sabato De Sarno to the sartorial mastery of Dolce & Gabbana. Thus 2024 opened with a Men’s Fashion Week full of surprises.
”The sensual vision of Sabato De Sarno’s collection for Gucci which inaugurates the first day of Milan Fashion Week is reflected in the clothes that crossed the catwalk: tank tops and denim studded with crystals, sparkling fringes on jackets and coats and bomber jackets in technical fabric designed with the pulse of the disco in mind”, says image consultant Arianna Fulciniti.
The standout pieces were the voluminous, broad-shouldered coats, which ranged from neutral tones to much bolder tones like lime and cobalt, as well as the luxuriously long ties and suits with side fastenings and button plackets that hide the buttons. Accessories include shiny Jackie bags in burgundy, beige or pea green – often laced up with matching gloves – and heavy jewelery worn on the bare chest.
”A collection that marks a real turning point towards more sober and refined looks that deviate from the flamboyant style of the previous designer Alessandro Michele”, continues Fulciniti.
Giorgio Armani in his Emporio Autumn/Winter 2024-2025 collection tells of an adventurous and romantic man who challenges the stormy sea. ”The Emporio Armani Atlantic crossing-themed fashion show places emphasis on the fluid transition between male and female: among the crew, in fact, stand out female figures who walk elegantly down the catwalk showing off tailored suits, long coats, and precious brooches. Dark navy blue wool suits, pocket hats and work overalls were able to represent the entire range of staff on a cruise ship, from the engine room to the captain’s chair”, continues image consultant Fulciniti.
”To the tune of ‘The Winter Sea’ by Loredana Bertè, the models, who represent modern courageous captains, wear trousers and overcoats with generous volumes for the day, while for the evening they opt for suits with precious embroidery such as trousers with set crystals that shone like moonlight on the sea”.
Fendi’s collection, on the other hand, is characterized by a feeling of a trip to the countryside and a subsequent return to the city. The muse of this new collection could be Queen Elizabeth at Balmoral, with her handkerchief on her head, her raincoat and her skirt. folds: in fact the spirit of the Scottish kilt runs through the entire collection. Loose Bermuda shorts with a crotch so low they look like a skirt are mixed with polo shirts and field jackets. ”Fendi has treated the repertoire of a functional yet luxurious Scottish weekender, with a wide range of incredibly inventive textures, slightly distorted by a futuristic and experimental edge,” explains the consultant.
”Among the strong pieces of the collection there are undoubtedly the accessories, including the Siesta Bag, a bag which – as can be guessed from the name itself – recalls the classic afternoon nap, a concept also made very clear by the shape of the bag itself, and the portable speaker enclosed in the FF case, created by Fendi together with the French company Devialet”.
The Sleek collection by Dolce&Gabbana instead tells of the renewed desire to dress elegantly. ”The catwalk was infused with an elegant tailored collection, predominantly black and with a few touches of white. Perfectly cut jackets and coats, shirts with bows and collars that are inspired by the repertoire clothing of spencer jackets and tuxedos, luxurious shirts in cream-colored satin and soft bows that close the blazers, precisely without buttons, while thin collars a scarf and organza flowers on flat black patent evening shoes hint at a sensual interpretation of the masculine”, comments the image consultant.
For the Prada fashion show, the AMO studio created a scenography that contrasts the interiors of a classic office with a natural landscape to act as a display for this collection which is entitled “Human Nature” and which speaks of the return to the rhythms of nature in antithesis to a hyperconnected society.
”The Prada man alternates suits with huge single-breasted jackets with shirts and ties, puts formal coats on Canadian tuxedos and lounge pajamas while using swimming caps and goggles as if they were accessories,” concludes Arianna Fulciniti.
The show offered a meditation on the simplicity and intrinsic beauty of the natural environment, a direct testimony to our desire to immerse ourselves in the world and feel connected to the energy of the seasons.
For more information on the latest men’s fashion trends visit www.ariannafulciniti.it.